Disclaimer

Nothing expressed here reflects the opinions of the Peace Corps or the U.S. government. I say this in part to protect them from getting blamed for anything I might say, but also to keep them from stealing my jokes.

Sunday, August 25, 2013

madam chambezi, year two

To be honest, there’s a lot I’m dreading about my rapidly approaching second year of teaching: the intricate bureaucracy, the sap-slow staff meetings, the focus on punishment instead of praise, the throng of school practices that defy logic, the demands placed on me as a white foreigner with connections and a computer. But there’s one thing I can’t wait for: seeing my kids again.
The student I’d predict to be most likely to go to university is Samson. He announced in the first week that he hoped to become a priest, and he did so in a sort of high-strung, highly enunciated, holier-than-thou manner that made me not like him very much – but he has since become one of my favorites. I marvel at his sincerity, his effort, and his limber way with language. He works miles ahead of anyone else in the class, forms sentences with varied structure, and has definitely reached the same neighborhood as fluency. And he is always smiling.
Jacob is the other star of Form 3, but he’s a little trickier to figure out. He perpetually wears a knowing smirk, and for good reason – usually, he does know. He readily raises his hand and jumps at opportunities to perform, but always with this slow, sly swagger, a posture that seems to say, “I don’t care that everyone’s watching me, but I know everyone is watching me.” Mysteriously, that classroom swagger fades on the street. He lives closer to me than any other student in the school, and yet he never comes up to me on his own. In fact, he is downright shy. I can’t explain it, but obviously the image you choose to project can be complex, especially when you’re 16.
There are other students who are less intellectually flashy, but whom I’ve been lucky to get to know. Petros is one of my favorites – he has the look and walk of a young Barack Obama, but presented in a wildly friendly, almost puppyish way. He drifts easily between the school social circles, but always sits alone in class, seemingly by choice. And he puts a heartwarming degree of effort in his English, despite the fact that it isn’t his best subject, and despite the fact that he is not the brightest in the class. He is hard not to notice.
There are others as well, of course: quiet, contemplative Richard, who prefers to just listen but writes spectacularly when given the chance; sweet, eager Elijah, who leaps at the opportunity to erase the board for me; sassy, straightforward Thoko, who is a girl with the air of a woman; and beautiful, brave Maggie, the first of any of the girls to approach me on her own, often the only girl to speak up in class, and the student who delivered an argument so passionate, cogent, and bold in one of our Life Skills debates that I consciously thought, “I want to be like her.” There’s whisper-voiced Felix, who I sense does not get treated well by his classmates, but whose time will come, and there’s multi-dimensional Benjamin, who runs with a rough crowd and comes to school erratically, but has started to glitter under the right light, turning in essays with surprising fluency and looking at me with more engagement and fascination. It’s hard to say who will still be here next year – my guess is the two suspendees, Bornface and Hastings, have slipped away for good. But others are harder to pin down, like Stanley, the boy who disappeared from school for weeks, was put in jail for attacking a woman, and then came to my house on a Saturday afternoon asking for help with his English. We’ll see.
The ten-year age difference between me and most of the Form 1s creates a much different dynamic. They’re more boisterous and bouncy, eager to talk because they’re less self-conscious about what they don’t know, but terribly difficult to talk to because everything they don’t know happens to be a lot. It’s a very female-driven room, too – Judith, Chance, and Bubile would run the whole show if allowed. (And to be honest, they could, undoubtedly). It’s harder to get to know the Form 1s in the sea of faces, but there are some standouts: adorable Cecelia, always in a pink jacket and ready to offer a guess, even if she is (unfortunately, usually) wrong, and mischievous Chiku, who means well but can never be trusted. (On an end-of-term survey, in response to the question “What did you like about this class?”, he wrote “You because you are so beautiful and wonderful and delicious.” Oh god.) There’s quiet, sharp Prince, who confided in me that he hopes to become a teacher “just like you”; Salayi, whose grades from the beginning of the term are almost unrecognizable compared to her final exam results (in a great way!); and sweet Divason, who sits in the back with rapt, faintly lovestruck attention, sending encouraging smiles my way that really help, whether he realizes it or not.

I admire them and I’m maddened by them. They disappoint me and they amaze me. And I cannot wait to see them in two weeks.

August

…has been a ridiculous whirlwind. Let me count the ways.
  •        - stupidly jumping off a truck and landing in a stupid way that has stupidly rendered me unable to walk for the past two weeks
  •      -    having my first ever x-ray at my first ever Malawian hospital, and discovering it to be one of the most surreal experiences of my life
  •          reuniting with the other 16 remaining members of my original Peace Corps family at our glorious mid-service training
  •         catching and playing with wild hedgehogs – a phrase I never imagined I would utter in Malawi
  •           meeting the nearly 140 other volunteers in-country (many of them for the first time ever) at an all-volunteer conference in Lilongwe, and finding it both invigorating and overwhelming
  •         witnessing the swear-in of the 20 new education volunteers, administered by the Director of Peace Corps
  •         chatting with the U.S. Ambassador to Malawi over a Fanta…while limping ridiculously
  •        accidentally brushing off the U.S. Ambassador to Malawi when she apparently said to me, “I hope your heel heals soon!”, and I limped away (ridiculously) and ignored her. Good-bye, career in Foreign Service.
  •         celebrating the 50th anniversary of Peace Corps Malawi by attending a gala at Kamuzu Palace, the home of President Joyce Banda…while limping ridiculously
  •         giving a speech in Chitumbuka in front of the President, the Ambassador, the Director of Peace Corps, and Vanessa Kerry…while limping ridiculously
  •         participating in a dance circle with the President…while limping ridiculously


Here’s to the next ridiculous 12 months.




ku amerika

I’ve now spent the past two Independence Days in the company of government-issued friends in a dusty, faraway land. And in the months between those two fourths of July, they have taken on deeper meaning, as I regularly catch myself fantasizing about a place where things are easier: where people show up on time, where I am not a spectacle, and where I do not lie awake thinking about all the different kinds of sandwiches, unable to sleep through all the Pavlovian drool. Mostly – and quite notoriously, at this point – I cannot think of the United States without feeling a huge, swelling appreciation, and a subsurface urge to cry. Malawi has made a sentimental patriot out of me. From 5,000 miles away, I finally see how incredible we are: how rare and precious it is to come from a hodge-podge nation of mongrels held tenuously together by the ideal that we are all the same, that we are born free, that we deserve to be happy. We fail, over and over again, to live up to these ideals, but still we reach for them – and that is extraordinary.

And yet I know, on some level, that I dream of a cartoon America. In July I went back home, and I saw something with more shadows, more complexity. I heard the verdict of the Trayvon Martin case while sitting in a Burger King. The only other diners were construction workers, sitting startlingly separate and in stone-faced silence: black men at one table, white men at another. I went to a public forum where people in my small Missouri town voiced opinions about a proposed human rights ordinance that would prohibit discrimination based on sexual orientation – and my jaw dropped at some of the things that were said. A bevy of citizens stepped up to announce, “I’ve never seen anybody complaining of [discrimination] in our town, so it’s a non-issue. We’re wasting our time here.” I couldn’t stop thinking of Malawi, where homosexuality has long been illegal, and of how many battles we all have left to fight.

In late June, in the middle of my mid-service “what am I even doing here?” crisis, I was given an incredible gift: being one of the first people to meet the group of twenty new Peace Corps volunteers. I was with them when they experienced, for the first time, the very things I have become numb to: bumping along in the backseat of a range rover on a red dirt road, dodging goats and chickens, sensing our mere presence send ripples in every direction, leaving a trail of stares, waves, and cheers in our slipstream. They were delighted. They were enraptured. They found it beautiful. And I did too, just by seeing these Americans’ fresh reactions to this wild, wonderful place that I find so frustrating, so infuriating, so slow, so joyous, so hilarious, so warm. It was so powerful I nearly cried, and I couldn’t help but be reminded of it just now, as I hugged my family good-bye for another year, choking back a very different kind of tears in the security checkpoint.


It’s easy for us Peace Corps volunteers to paint one-dimensional pictures of America and Malawi, to pine for everything we had on the other side – but god, we have so much, in these perfect people, in these two deeply imperfect worlds, and in all the gifts scattered between them.